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182: Cream Puffs; Source: NOLA

Directions:
This is actually the only secret to puff making, Child wrote.

Cream puffs are best served within an hour or two of making. Cooled puffs can be frozen, though they will need to be recrisped. Do that in a 375-degree oven for five minutes. Cool again before filling.

From one basic recipe can come hors d'oeuvres, entrees and dessert. If you haven't already, it's time to take the French chef's advice.

Master recipe

for cream puffs

Makes about 40 small puffs

or 15 large

? cup water

6 tablespoons butter, cut into pieces

1 cup flour

4 large eggs

In a saucepan over medium-high heat, combine water, milk, salt and butter and bring to a full boil. When the butter melts, remove pan from heat, add the flour all at once, and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until blended. Return pan to medium heat and continue stirring until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan and forms a ball. Remove from the heat and let cool for three to four minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk 1 egg. When the batter has cooled, pour the egg into it and beat with the spoon until incorporated. Add the remaining eggs, one at a time, by whisking each one first and then stirring it into the batter. After each egg is added, the mixture separates and appears shiny, but it returns to a smooth paste with vigorous beating. Let the dough cool for about 10 minutes before shaping.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees and position the racks in the middle. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or aluminum foil. For small puffs, place about 1 teaspoon of dough onto the baking sheet by either piping it through a pastry bag or by spoonfuls. For larger puffs, use 1 to 2 tablespoons of batter. Space the mounds at least 2 inches apart.

Bake the puffs for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 375 and continue baking until golden brown, 5 to 10 minutes longer for the small puffs and 15 to 20 minutes longer for large puffs. Remove from the oven and immediately prick the side of each puff with the tip of a sharp knife. Turn off the oven and return baking sheet. Leave the door open slightly and allow the pastries to dry out for 10 to 15 minutes. Let the pastries cool completely on the pan on a wire rack before filling.

From Essentials of Baking by Williams-Sonoma (Oxmoor House, 2003).

Goug?res

Makes 4 to 5 dozen

? cup whole milk

? teaspoon salt

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